Спасо-Преображенский собор в Переславле-Залесском

Фото: Спасо-Преображенский собор - старейшая достопримечательность Переславля-ЗалесскогоПри всей своей внешней аскетичности, Спасо-Преображенский собор – центральная достопримечательность Переславля-Залесского. Почему? Прежде всего, по праву возраста – старше Преображенского собора в Переславле только окружающие его земляные валы. Но валы, хоть и сохранились в первозданном виде, никакими особенными архитектурными изысками не блещут, их создание – работа трудоемкая, но не тонкая. Другое дело собор!

Город Переславль основал в 1152 году князь Юрий Долгорукий. На самом деле, люди жили на берегу Плещеева озера задолго до Юрия: на северном берегу озера, на холмах стоял город Клещин. Князь Юрий переместил существовавшее поселение южнее, к месту впадения в Плещеево озеро речки Трубеж; новую крепость он окружил земляным валом, а внутри этого кольца заложил храм.

Работы по возведению Спасо-Преображенского собора начались одновременно с переносом города на новое место, т.е. в 1152 году. Факт практически бесспорный. А вот относительно сроков окончания строительства у историков единства мнений нет. Кто-то считает, что он был завершен при Юрии, а кто-то приписывает эту заслугу его сыну – Андрею Боголюбскому. В качестве наиболее вероятного срока окончания строительства называется «окно» с 1157 по 1160 год. Впрочем, при возрасте в восемь с половиной веков разница в несколько лет едва ли имеет значение. Храм очень старый!

Спасо-Преображенский собор – одна из немногих «живых» достопримечательностей, дошедших до нас «приветом» из домонгольской Руси. Войска Батыя впервые пришли в наши северные земли в 1238 году, когда собору было уже около 80-ти лет – более чем почтенный возраст, тем более, для тех времен. Как и всему городу, главному Переславскому собору пришлось натерпеться от тех, которые лучше незваных гостей: ему случалось и гореть, и подвергаться разорениям.

Фото: такой вид на главную достопримечательность Переславля-Залесского, Спасо-Преображенский собор открывается с древнего земляного вала летним вечеромВпрочем, татаро-монголами дело, конечно же, не ограничилось – когда пришло время, храм, как и полагается всякой достаточно древней российской достопримечательности, пострадал и от поляков, и от большевиков. Кроме того, случались в его истории «дружественные» реставрации, по своим результатам мало чем уступавшие стихийным бедствиям. Поэтому, тем более удивительно, что эта достопримечательность смогла дожить до нашего времени. И не просто дожить, а сохранить при этом облик, максимально близкий к оригинальному.

Говорят, человеческий организм полностью обновляется каждые семь лет: по прошествии этого времени каждая клетка, каждая молекула в нашем теле успевают замениться на новые. Однако, такие метаморфозы не меняют личности: клетки другие, а человек – тот же, что и семь, и четырнадцать, и тридцать пять лет тому назад. В преклонном возрасте он может ясно помнить события, происходившие с ним в детстве, как если бы они приключились только вчера.

Что-то похожее, наверняка, можно сказать и о древних памятниках. И о Спасо-Преображенском соборе в Переславле-Залесском, в том числе. Благодаря тому, что изменения производились постепенно и на «живом теле», благодаря этой преемственности, сохранилась душа храма. И вот, то, что мы видим сегодня – действительно достопримечательность середины XII века. Аутентичный долгожитель, так сказать, а не поздняя искусная подделка.

Фото: земляной вал и возвыщающийся над ним купол Спасо-Преображенского собора - древнейшие достопримечательности Переславля-Залесского, они остаются соседями уже более восьми с половиной веков.Смотрит современный человек на древний собор с древнего же земляного вала, и что он видит? По дорожке, проходящей вдоль одной из белокаменных стен, не поднимая головы, бежит-спешит по своим делам тетка с авоськами; дети с шумом и гамом гоняются вокруг него на велосипедах; обитатели соседнего с собором дома азартно выясняют, чьи гости прошлой ночью нагадили в подъезде.

В общем, ничего особенного – обыденность. Впрочем, странно было бы искать героическое в сегодняшнем дне, абсолютно заурядном и ничем не выделяющемся из череды других точно таких же дней, составляющих нашу повседневную, по большей части не слишком богатую на памятные события, жизнь.

Да, все самые славные дела этого города достались дню вчерашнему. Очень интересно представить себе, каким он был.

А и пожалуйста – вот, что можно было увидеть с переславского древнего вала вчера: тропой давешней тетки с авоськами проходит целая вереница князей, потомков варяжского конунга Рюрика – от Юрия Долгорукого до Ивана Грозного. Кто по семейным поводам – детей окрестить или родственников навестить, а кто на богомолье приехал – паломничеством занимается.

Вне зависимости от цели приезда, у каждого из них миллион забот, каждый думает о своем – у одного дома смута зреет, а другой думает о новом скакуне, которого он вчера объезжал. Кто-то гадает, как обхитрить постылого родственника и присоединить его вотчину к своей, а кто-то не рассчитал силы на вчерашнем пиру и сегодня думает лишь о том, как неплохо было бы вздремнуть по окончании церемонии. Едва ли кто-то из этих людей всерьез концентрируется на величии момента; скорее всего, для каждого из них его присутствие здесь – лишь эпизод, мало чем выделяющийся из других подобных эпизодов.

Шумные и беспокойные дети здесь тоже водятся (правда, без велосипедов) – вот в собор вносят для крещения маленького Александра Ярославича, будущего князя Александра Невского. Его родители живут здесь же поблизости, в красивом деревянном княжеском тереме. Подрастая, маленький княжич часто играет во дворе со своими маленькими друзьями, и, поверьте, галдежа от них не меньше, чем от нынешних детишек.

Вслед за Александром (не сразу, конечно – лет, эдак, через 160) крестить своего малыша сюда привозит князь Дмитрий Донской. В воспреемники ему он зовет Сергия Радонежского. Да, преподобный здесь тоже побывал.

В общем, с детьми в «славном прошлом» тоже все в порядке.

А кто же нагадил в соседнем подъезде? Ох, этих пакостников за все времена наберется тьма-тьмущая – и татары, и монголы, и поляки, и литовцы. Ну, и свои, конечно, в этом плане от «понаехавших» никогда не отставали. Вообще, вопрос чистоплотности в наших местах не сильно актуален – эта концепция многим неизвестна или непонятна.

Стало быть, что вчера, а что сегодня – из века в век одно и то же. Рутина, день за днем.

Что еще надо сказать о Спасо-Преображенском соборе в Переславле-Залесском. Время от времени, в храме проводятся службы. По церковному ведомству он приписан к Никольскому монастырю, но вообще имеет статус музея. Впрочем, график работы своеобразный – с 1 мая по 1 октября. Главный экспонат музея – собственно, сам собор. Достопримечательностей здесь, конечно же, могло быть больше, но, в силу разных обстоятельств, сейчас здесь в основном хранятся копии того, что в разное время составляло его убранство раньше.

Первая серьезная реставрация Спасо-Преображенского собора состоялась в начале XV века. В это время специально для него Феофаном Греком была написана храмовая икона. Работу великого мастера изъяли для реставрации в начале 1920-х годов, да так и не вернули. Сейчас она хранится в Третьяковской галерее, что, наверное, и лучше для ее сохранности. А в Переславле ее заменила копия.

Поскольку речь идет о достопримечательности, имеющей непосредственное отношение к религии, то можно ожидать, что, как и огромное количество других церквей, она пострадала от большевиков. Однако, будет несправедливо списывать все беды и несправедливости только на них. В конце концов, большевики не с других планет прилетели: их предки (как и потомки) также массово страдали безалаберностью и бестолковостью. И вот тому яркая иллюстрация.

В 1862 году владимирский краевед Н.А. Артлебен обнаружил под более поздними росписями древние фрески, которые, предположительно, были созданы в «ранней молодости» храма. При реставрации в 1890-е годы фрески были вначале скопированы, а затем сняты и вывезены. А вскоре после этого и оригиналы, и копии загадочным образом пропали. На сегодняшний день уцелели только два фрагмента, которые хранятся в Историческом музее в Москве.

Тем не менее, даже если бы Спасо-Преображенский собор стоял совершенно пустым, все равно он оставался бы ярчайшей достопримечательностью, причем, не только Переславля, но и всей области, составлявшей когда-то Северо-Восточную Русь. Не так много памятников, созданных руками наших предков еще в дотатарской Руси, пощадило для нас время.

Так что, если вы испытываете нежные чувства ко всяческой старине, то вам непременно сюда!

График работы музея:

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Теги: Переславль-Залесский, достопримечательности, Спасо-Преображенский собор, Юрий Долгорукий. Александр Невский, Дмитрий Донской, Сергий Радонежский
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