Звенигородский Городок

Вид на звенигородский Городок с земляного вала; вдали за деревьями виден Успенский соборГородок – древнейшая достопримечательность подмосковного Звенигорода. Собственно, с Городка, расположившегося на крутом берегу Москвы-реки, и начался город, основанный в 1152 году князем Юрием Долгоруким.

Как выглядит эта звенигородская достопримечательность сегодня? Теперь это поле, напоминающее своими размерами футбольный стадион, вместо трибун, обнесенный с трех сторон остатками земляных валов, густо поросшими соснами. Со стороны, не защищенной насыпью, четырехугольник ограничен белокаменной церковью – это древний Успенский собор. Его год рождения – предположительно 1399-й. Старше этой достопримечательности в Звенигороде – только насыпные валы.

От Успенского собора дальше идет пологий уклон, скоро переходящий в крутую горку, сбегающую к руслу Москвы-реки; речка обеспечивала естественную защитную линию Городка с этой стороны.

Звенигород, Богоявленская церковь в ГородкеРядом с Успенским собором приютился еще один храм – Богоявленская церковь. По всему видно, что это строение совсем новое; это действительно так – церковь была возведена на месте более старого храма, изначально построенного в 1893 году, но сгоревшего в 20-х годах следующего века.

К счастью, время явило большую благосклонность к Успенскому собору, благодаря чему его посетители могут любоваться росписью стен, выполненной самим Андреем Рублевым.

Связь времен отрицать нелепо – совершенно очевидно, что и реки, и поля, и холмы, которые мы можем видеть сегодня, существовали в более-менее неизменном виде и сто, и двести, и тысячу лет до нашего времени. Многим из них посчастливится в том же неизменном виде сохраняться еще многие века – чем дальше от центров цивилизации, тем выше такая вероятность. Но то – дикая природа. Когда же связь времен заявляет о себе неким рукотворным памятником, то восприятие ее – этой связи – многократно обостряется.

Можно представить себе (хотя и очень трудно это сделать), что над возведением этих стен трудились сотни безвестных древних людей, объединенных общим обезличенным названием «наши предки». Но здесь – больше: вместе с теми многими, чья индивидуальность растворилась в истории едва ли не прежде окончания их земной жизни, в этом самом подмосковном городке Звенигороде в незапамятные времена трудился человек, чье имя сохранилось, как имя Гения.

Успенский собор в Городке - древнейшая достопримечательность ЗвенигородаМало сведений сохранилось об Андрее Рублеве как о человеке; однако, известно, что он был, и был чрезвычайно одарен, и свидетельством тому – его работы. И еще практически доподлинно известно, что в свое время работал он в Успенском соборе Звенигорода, украшал своей росписью его стены. После того, как он сделал последний мазок, сошел с лесов и посмотрел на свою работу со стороны, прошло много дней и много событий. И вот по прошествии бесконечной череды восходов и закатов сюда приезжаете вы и можете видеть работу Мастера, как если бы она была закончена всего лишь за час до вашего приезда.

Такая уникальная достопримечательность ждет вас в звенигородском Городке сегодня и в любой другой день, когда бы вы ни надумали приехать сюда.

Внутри Успенского собора в звенигородском Городке; в росписи его сводов принимал участие Андрей РублевПрочие достопримечательности – несохранившиеся. Это и золотоверхий терем-дворец, построенный в 1395-м году, во времена правления Юрия Звенигородского – второго сына Дмитрия Донского, при котором город пережил свой расцвет, и бревенчатые стены, проходившие по гребню земляного вала, и дубовые башни, стоявшие по периметру крепости. Разрушительную работу, не доделанную татарами Тохтамыша и Едигея, доделало за них время.

Но и того, что осталось – достаточно, чтобы приехать сюда и увидеть звенигородский Городок своими глазами.

Смотреть на карте города

Теги: Звенигород, достопримечательности, Городок, Успенский собор, древняя крепость, Андрей Рублев
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